Open the tap of the extractor and let the honey pour out. The honey is collected as it comes out of the spigot.
This didnt really work that great.
How to extract honey. Advertentie De beste online prijsvergelijkingssite. Wij maken online shoppen extra leuk. Vind en vergelijk producten van de beste merken en retailers bij ProductShopper.
After all the frames were extracted there was still quite a bit of wax bits in the honey. I decided to filter the honey one more time. I purchased a pair of pantyhose cut one of the legs off and fixed it to a large funnel.
I poured the honey though the funnel and into the stocking to remove the last bit of wax. We tried cutting just the caped section of the honey and attempted to suspend the frames horizontally so the honey could drain out. This didnt really work that great.
The honey pretty much stayed in place in a sort of vacuum inside the cells. I now understand why the centrifugal force is required in an extractor to whip the honey out. The best temperature to uncap and extract honey is 21-27C.
Above 32C the wax is too soft and below 18C the honey is stiff and is hard work to extract. I try and do the harvesting before mid-August to avoid any complexities with warming honey. When you extract honey you have to have the valve open so the honey can drain out.
There is a stainless double honey sieve that you can put on top of a 5-gallon pail. It is made to go under the extractor outlet. Removable coarse then fine screens filter out 95 percent of wax particles and honeybee parts.
The crankshaft handle on manually operated honey extractors spins the combs. The centrifugal force draws the honey out onto the inside wall of the extractor by spinning the combs. The honey then oozes down the sides and pours out of the bottom spigot.
Excessive speed will tear apart the honey frames and too slow spinning will not extract any honey from the frames. Replace the turned honey frame in the cylindrical cage with the opposite side facing out. Restart the drill and extract the sweet honey from the other side of the frame.
Take out the empty frames and you are done. Manually operated honey extractors have the crankshaft handle which then spins the combs. By spinning the combs centrifugal force pulls the honey out onto the inside wall of the extractor.
That honey then oozes down the sides and drains out of the spigot at the bottom. The honey is collected as it comes out of the spigot. You can squeeze or crush out the honey from the comb but this destroys precious drawn comb that you could reuse.
Once uncapped place your frames in an extractor and spin the honey out. Once the honey is extracted out of the comb it collects in the bottom of the extractor which has a valve on the bottom. Most beekeepers strain their honey.
Honey in open cells not capped with wax can be extracted if it is cured. To see if its cured turn the frame with the cells facing the ground. Give the frame a gentle shake.
If honey leaks from the cells it isnt cured and shouldnt be extracted. Harvesting honey before its ripe and capped may cause fermentation and the loss of all the honey collected. So be patient and make sure the comb is capped before you extract the honey.
The key to successful extraction is speed. Make sure and extract the honey from the comb as soon as possible while it is still warm from the hive. Drain the extractor and strain the honey.
At some point the level of honey at the bottom will be too high to spin the frames anymore. Drain the honey into a bucket then strain the honey through a strainer to get rid of the bits of wax or the occasional bee. Pour strained honey into a bucket with a tap.
Open the tap of the extractor and let the honey pour out. Some manipulation of the extractor is needed to get the last dregs of the honey out. It takes one bee a lifetime to collect one teaspoon of honey so try and get every last drop.
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